June 22, 2019 - Johnstone Straight

We anchored last night in a very beautiful bay, just a few miles from Seymore Narrows.  Our plan is to pull anchor and arrive at the narrows about an hour early so we can get through and start making progress.  Once through the current should reverse direction and give us a good push most of the day.  It is a long passage, about 75 miles.  You don't want to fight the current.  But, you really don't want to have a strong push from the current AND winds coming at you.  The waves will quickly build into very short, steep waves that will make the ride quite uncomfortable.  We are looking at some different forecasts, and conditions look to be pretty encouraging for our transit.

We saw a humpback whale yesterday.

A cruise-ship passes by our anchorage.  I doubt anyone onboard even noticed us.

The anchorage is calm with no wind.  Kevin gets out the drone and flies around getting some great pictures.  The drone is going to give us a fantastic perspective when we arrive in Alaska and are surrounded by glaciers, and chunks of ice in the water.

The drone can automatically create panorama shots.  This one is spectacular.

Adagio anchored in a peaceful bay.  Gowlland Harbor, BC.

A slightly different view, not often seen.

Our new, tiny drone.  It's a DJI Spark.

I awoke to a voicemail from a customer/friend of mine.  He is anchored just a few hundred yards from up on the other side of an Island.  He and his wife used to own a boat exactly like ours.  They had taken it from Maryland on the East Coast, all the way through the Bahamas and Caribbean, through the Panama Canal, up central America, into Mexico and the Sea of Cortez, then up to Alaska.  If that weren't enough, they turned around and the trip in reverse all the way back to their home in Maryland.  The old Hatteras 48 LRC is quite a capable boat!

Fred and Sharon's new boat.  It's 85 feet long.  Spectacular.

What are the odds that we would end up this close to each other?

Fred emerges to wave, and check out our boat.  He owned one just like
ours for about 30 years and estimates he put more than 100,000 miles on her
during that time.

Fred became a customer when he hired me to install all the electronics in his new boat, which he had custom built for him after selling their Hatteras.  It is quite a vessel, both inside and out!!!!

Johnstone straight was relative easy, except for about an hour, beginning just after noon.  The winds kicked up to 25-28 knots and the waves quickly built until we were pounding into them.  We decided to duck out and anchor in a small inlet to the side, but the winds subsided enough that we could continue on for the entire straight.  It was a bit disappointing when the winds kicked up and we thought we were going to have to break this transit into two days.  I really wanted to get this one behind us, which we fortunately were able to do.  We pulled out at the north end of the straight and found a great little anchorage with no wind at all.

A Bald Eagle supervises our transit in Johnstone Straight.

Speed record for our 8 knot trawler.
Having the current behind you is a BIG advantage.

Tomorrow, we will head towards Queen Charlotte Straight, which is the last weather hurdle until the Alaska border.  The forecasts are all looking good for tomorrow and Monday (really good forecasts) to get across, into the very protected inside passage that leads all the way to Alaska.

Internet coverage is going to become very sporadic from here north.  So, don't expect frequent updates.  You can always click on the map link in the upper right to see where we are at any given time.

June 21, 2019 - Nanaimo & north past Campbell River

We spend Thursday onboard waiting for the winds to die down.  They were originally forecast to die off by noon, but then the forecast changed and they were going to remain strong through the night.  Friday is forecast to be a good day to make some miles heading north toward Campbell River.

It blew most of the day, between 10 to 20 knots. 
Outside we could see big waves and rough conditions.

We spent the day looking at weather, chatting, admiring boats, etc.  Basically it was a very low stress day.  We decided to get up early Friday morning and if the forecast is basically the same we will head out and make the long trip north to the entrance to Johnstone straight and Seymore Narrows.

Alex and I contemplated the seaworthiness of this vessel.

Especially in rough ocean conditions.

It is a Florida Bay Coaster.  I've seen ads for them in boating magazines, but this is the first I've seen in person.  Very different looking boats.

Florida Bay Coaster Boats

Reebok our cat is a bit on the timid side, and he is still not really coming out much because we have Alex and Paulo onboard.  He has managed to hang out with us all from time to time, but usually runs and hides of somebody gets up.   But, he is warming up to our guests, slowly.

The boats that came in and anchored closest to us both had problems with fouled props.  The first had a line dangling off the side of their boat that tangled in the prop when they backup up to set the anchor.  The owner had to go in the water and cut the line off.  He was in the water for about 30 minutes.  The other boat had wrapped a kelp bed around his prop and drifted into the anchorage and dropped the hook very close to us.  Both boats fixed their issues however.

Poor guy had to go under his boat in cold water.

This prop was wrapped with kelp.  They spent at least 40 minutes getting it off.

Tons of AIS targets near us.  Almost all were large commercial boats though.
Most pleasure boats were staying put Thursday.

Several of these canoes paddled through the anchorage.

Friday morning we awoke and found the forecast had not changed.  We pulled the anchor around 6:00AM and motored out into the straight of Georgia and about 15-20 knots on the nose.  It was a reasonably smooth ride though, and the winds slowly subsided, until it was down to about 2 knots.  The water turned glassy smooth.  It was a great ride all the way past Campbell River.  We will be anchoring in a few hours just north of Campbell River so we can be ready to catch Seymore Narrows about an hour before slack tomorrow morning.

PERFECT conditions heading north towards Campbell River

The cats are mellow and enjoying a smooth ride today.

The boat has performed flawlessly so far.  Not so much as a hickup.  It's nice to have such a reliable boat!

June 19, 2019 - Nanaimo, BC

We pulled anchor in Clam Bay yesterday in light winds.  As we exited the bay and headed north we were greeted with 20+ knot winds for the entire trip to Dodd Narrows.  Dodd Narrows is a tiny passage between two larger bodies of water.  As a result, the currents can really move through here at certain tide levels.  This is a location to be transited only when the currents are not running.  We timed our arrival at Dodd Narrows for slack water, and we were right on time.  Lot's of boats heading in both directions at slack.  Once through, we encountered some rougher water.  Kevin started feeling a little uneasy, and our cat Reebok started howling.  No sea sickness for either, but not an enjoyable experience.

Entering Dodd Narrows

One of several boats that followed us through Dodd.  It was rough on the north
side.  Blowing 20-25 knots.

Busy Nanaimo.  Also, windy Nanaimo.

We set the anchor off Newcastle Island and then Alex and I dinghied over to Nanaimo to hit the grocery store.  The restrictions at the boarder are such that most fruits, veggies, alcohol, and many other items are forbidden, or only allowed in very small quantities.  We stocked up on those items that we could not bring across the boarder.  The wind has been blowing about 20-25 knots all day.

Re-provisioned, we parked the dinghy at the fuel dock in Nanaimo.

There are not too many boats here at Newcastle, so there was no difficulty finding a spot to anchor.

After putting all the groceries away the 4 of us hopped in the dinghy and went back to Nanaimo to meet Phil, Deborah, and their niece Jill for dinner.  How unexpected it is to see Phil and Deborah!  Alex and I are marveling at the fact that we are all here, in British Columbia, at the same time.  Alex and Paulo live in San Francisco.  Kevin and I in La Conner.  Phil and Deborah have been cruising the South Pacific for years.  What are the odds that all 6 of us would be right here, right now, and also that we would figure this out and get together for dinner?  Today would be a good day for one of us to buy some lotto tickets, and lots of them!

We spent several hours with Deborah and Phil catching up.  We heard about other boater's we all know and what those folks are up to now.  We had a few rounds of Tequila shots to celebrate (just like old times in Mexico).  Awesome time.  Too bad the rest of our families could not be here.

Jill, Deborah, Phil, Alex, Kevin, Steve (Alex taking photo).

The forecasts are calling for good conditions starting Thursday around noon.  And then excellent conditions in Johnstone Straight Saturday and Sunday.  Johnstone Straight is the biggest hurdle for most boaters headed to Alaska.  It stops most boaters from ever venturing further north than Desolation Sound.  The currents can be strong there, so you want to catch the current when it is headed north so you are not slogging along against the current while making very little progress.  But, the winds typically flow southward, and are usually quite strong.  The winds are opposite the direction of the current which makes the waves very short and steep.  These conditions are extremely uncomfortable.  Johnstone Straight is long and takes all day to transit.  With winds forecast to be light Saturday and Sunday, and the current going our direction  most of the day, we are feeling extremely fortunate.  This doesn't happen very often in Johnstone Straight.

Alex and I spend Wednesday evening in the pilothouse looking through all of our books and reference materials and reviewing weather forecasts forming a game plan for our next few days.  We all head to bed feeling good about our itinerary, and the lucky break in the weather.

June 16 - June 18, 2019 La Conner to Clam Bay BC

It has been an easy trip so far.  Winds have been relatively light, the sun is shining, and the 4 of us are enjoying getting reacquainted.  Kevin and Paulo are having a lot of fun; we are hearing lots of laughter coming from the salon where they are hanging out.  Alex and I are also having a great time sharing stories of our lives since we last saw each other.

We spent our first night in Echo Bay on Sucia Island.  Then off to Bedwell Harbor and Canadian customs.  Customs was an unexpectedly easy event.  There was nobody in the customs building which means you have to phone in your information.  There are a bank of phone on the side of the customs building that connect you directly to a central customs office, somewhere in Canada.  I simply gave them all of our information such as passports numbers, birth dates, a list of food and alcohol items, etc.  5 minutes later we had our clearance number and were free to go.  We expected a long ordeal since Alex and Paulo are citizens of Brazil with US Green Cards.  In addition, Alex and I were each bringing our minor children across the border without the other parent.  We were ready with ample documentation to allow this, but it was not an issue.  We also have two cats on-board, and there is paperwork required for bringing them across the border.  Again, not an issue.

The Canadian customs dock in Bedwell Harbor

While anchored and relaxing in the salon.  Zappa, our cat, came running into the salon from the cockpit.  He was soaking wet, with salt water.  He has somehow fallen off the boat and managed to get back on the swimstep on his own.  We don't really know what happened.  But, it was scary to think he could have been lost on day two.  In our two year Mexico trip he fell in just once, but we were there and saw it happen.  This time it's a mystery.

Zappa, drying off after falling in the water.  Poor kitty.

There has not been much to report yet, as we are mostly motoring through the Gulf Islands so we can catch some forecasted calm weather Thursday and Friday in the Straight of Georgia.

The BC ferries are great.  So much nicer than the WA State ferries.

Sunbathing seals.

We have a drone for this trip.  When the winds are light we will be using it for a new perspective on boating;  The view from above.

Kevin flying the drone.

Adagio, as seen from above

Anchored in Clam Bay, BC.  This was a great anchorage.  We had almost no wind
overnight yet it was blowing 20 knots just past that little island on the left overnight
and the next day.

We snagged a full bull kelp on the starboard stabilizer.  It got stuck there and made a terrible racket that sounded like angry woodpeckers attacking our hull.  It took a few minutes to figure what was happening.  Alex was able to snag the kelp with a boat hook and then cut the end off it it.  It then slipped right off the stabilizer shaft and we were on our way.

Alex cuts the end off the bull kelp.  No more woodpeckers attacking the hull.

In an unbelievable twist of fate, we are going to be meeting Deborah and Phil from s/v Coastal Drifter in Nanaimo tomorrow.  We last saw them in Mexico while we were cruising 3 years ago.  Alex and Paulo also last saw them in Mexico, even though both boats spent the next few years exploring the South Pacific.  Phil and Deborah are only here 2 weeks and then return to their boat in the South Pacific for another few years of cruising.

June 17, 2019 - La Conner to Sucia Island, WA

Adagio and crew are Alaska bound!  Kathy picked up the crew in Everett this AM and after some breakfast, the last load of items and crew got underway at 12:30pm.   Kevin and Paulo are already having a great deal of fun.  Although not cruising or seeing them in more than 3 years, we have followed each others blogs so it does not feel so long ago.  They are heading to the customs dock in the morning and then northbound.  Steve will post as he gets time.

Alex, Paulo, Kevin and Steve

Heading north up the Swinomish Channel

June 16, 2019 - Heading to Alaska!

Tomorrow Kevin and Steve depart La Conner aboard "Adagio" to spend the summer exploring Alaska!!! 

Kathy and Cindy will join us in Petersburg Alaska in early July.  Until then, for the duration of the trip north, Alex and Paulo from s/v Pesto will be along to enjoy the adventure up the inside passage.  We met Alex and Paulo (along with Adriana and Raquel) when we were heading down the coast of Oregon on our way to a year in Mexico.  They were on a similar family adventure and we bonded instantly.  We spent many fun times together in Mexico with them.  Kevin and Paulo are roughly the same age and have stayed in contact ever since we parted ways in 2016 (playing video games online together almost daily).  When we returned home in 2016, the crew of Pesto sailed on to the Marquesas, South Pacific, and eventually ended their journey in New Zealand 2 years later.  They now live in the San Francisco area, but are natives of Brazil.  We are very much looking forward to reuniting with Alex and Paulo tomorrow morning!!!

I (Steve) will be updating this blog as time and a decent internet connection allow.

Stay tuned.....

November 20, 2017 - Queentown and heading home

We spent 2.5 days in Queenstown, which is a major tourist destination.  It's a busy town with heaps of tourist-based activities to tempt any visitor.  We decided to do a jet boat adventure ride on the Shotover River.  It was EXCITING!  I'm surprised they are allowed to run these types of activities because it seems like there is some real danger here.  There is a boat driver, who is running a fast jet boat full of passengers, at high speeds up a shallow and narrow river.  He takes you within inches of the canyon walls at high speed and does 360 spins in places you just don't think it could be done.  You will see what I mean from the following pictures and videos we took:

Ready for a jet-boat thrill ride.

A shot of us blasting through the narrow canyon at high speed.

Same place, now as the boat is heading back down the river.  Going maybe 40mph.
At times we were less than a foot from the cliff walls.  It was exciting, but a
bit scary at the same time.

The drive to get to the jet-boat adventure was exciting in-itself.  We hopped on the company's bus for the 40 minute drive to the jet boat facility.  The road is a dirt road, built in the 1920's for the gold miners to get their gold out of the Shotover Valley.  It's a steep valley, and the road is on the edge of a cliff, hundreds of feet above the river.  It was a bit scary to look out the window and see nothing but a sheer cliff without even a glimpse of the road we were on.  In usual New Zealand fashion, the driver was going a little to fast for my comfort....

The start of bus ride out to the Shotover River

Great views from the drive down to the river.  You can see the road winding
around over on the left side.

Looking down from the bus at the river below.  There are no guardrails.  At times
you could not even see the side of the road because we were so close to the edge.

Looking back at the road.  It is perched in that little notch they carved into the
cliff.

Looking down on a section of the Shotover river, of which we had passed through
 on the jet-boat previously.  There is a suspension bridge there that at one time
was the highest bungy jumping bridge in the world.

While in Queenstown we played mini-golf and also went to a great wildlife conservation center that had some live Kiwis to see.  They are nocturnal birds so you never see them during the day.  They had them in a dark building where you could observe them close up.  They are very strange birds.  It was great to see 4 Kiwis up close.  They also had a lot of other native and exotic birds there, and also the Tuatara which has lived in New Zealand for 200 mllion years.

Click here for more info on the Kiwi

 Click here for more info on the Tuatara

Cindy go into a little trouble in Queenstown.  I got her out
of this mess, though.

Mini-golf in Queenstown, New Zealand.

One of the local birds at the exhibit

Tuatara, the last living member of the sphenodontian family.  Basically, it's a
dinosaur that is still alive today.  It exists only in New Zealand.

This bird was just hanging out at the sanctuary.  No fences or overhead nets were
there to keep him/her contained.

And now, the final "crazy van picture" of the day.  We are returning home tomorrow.  We have 3 sequantial flights in order to get home.  The first is a short 45 minute flight from Queentown to Aukland.  The next is a 12 hour flight from Auckland, and the last is a 2.5 hour flight from LA to Seattle.  It will be a long day getting home....